Chasing the dragon.
A trip by motorcycle and boat from Bali to Komodo

I had some unfinished business to attend to.
In 1982 I was travelling with some friends in Indonesia. We were "island hopping" Eastwards by ferry and bus from Bali.
We had the intention of going to see the "Komodo dragon." This fearsome beast, known to have killed humans, lives in several specific locations on remote islands in the archipelago – which go to make up the Country of Indonesia.
However, at that time, I only got as far as the town of Sumbawa Besar – before I felt I had to leave. This was much to the surprise of my travelling companions & I do not recall giving a satisfactory account of my actions.
In fact the reason was that I had decided, whilst travelling, that I wished to return to Sulawesi, where I was living at the time, to marry my sweetheart there. But that's another story…….!
Since then I have had the intention of making it to Komodo, and indeed do further travelling in this fascinating part of the World.
So, on May 30th 2010 I boarded Singapore Airlines flight # SQ327 to Singapore, via Munich, taking off at 09:20BST.
After a brief stopover in Singapore, just time to take a refreshing early morning dip in the rooftop swimming pool at the airport & buy a bottle of duty free Pernod, I boarded SQ 942 – direct to Denpasar in Bali.
I was met at the airport by members of my Family and taken home to our house North of Kuta. Some 26 hours after leaving home in UK I was taking in the calming sight of the nearby rice fields from the balcony.
My 200cc Honda Tiger motorcycle, which I store here, was soon fired up. I had to use the kick starter though as the battery had given up thru' lack of use and would not hold a charge.
After several days rest, a long journey takes its toll on the body, I loaded up the Tiger and set off Eastwards across Bali to Padangbai. This is the ferry port for Lombok – the island to the East of Bali.
I did not have a specific plan for my journey, although I had taken time in Denpasar to purchase some local maps of the islands I wished to visit. Also I had done some research on the internet about how to get to Komodo. It is not exactly on the beaten track. Some expensive tours are arranged, but for lone travelers, such as myself, things can be more difficult.
The ride from Denpasar to Padangbai is not particularly pleasant due to the volume of the traffic and the poor condition of the roads. [A new road is currently under construction which should improve matters greatly].
I was waved on to one of the frequent ferries which sail between Bali and the port of Lembar on the West side of Lombok. It takes about 5 hours to cross the Selat Lombok, which separates the islands. The one way trip for myself and the bike cost 86,000 Indonesian Rupiah. There are currently around 13,000 Rupiah to the British Pound Sterling.
The ride across Lombok was nothing special. Actually it was not much fun initially as I arrived in Lombok during a tropical storm and I did not have wet weather gear. The roads in Lombok are quite busy and Mataram, the main town, has grown significantly in the last 28 years since I was here.
Around sunset I arrived in Kayangan, Labuhan Lombok, the port on the East side of the island and point of embarkation for Sumbawa. I managed to find a small Losmen or cheap hotel. The Lima Tiga cost 70,000 Rupiah a nite, including a cup of coffee and a snack in the morning. Do not expect luxuries such as a towel or soap though! Facilities are very basic and I had an internal room with no external windows. It was extremely hot and uncomfortable.
In the middle of the nite I wished to visit the lavatory. However there was a power cut on and it was pitch black. I did not know the layout of the room or corridor. Luckily past experience has taught me to have a torch and matches handy. By these means I was able to answer nature's call.
I was glad to leave early next morning and catch one of the regular ferries over the Selat Atas to Pototano in Sumbawa. This was a shorter crossing, only a couple of hours and cost 42,500 Rupiah. My spirits were high on arrival in Sumbawa. It is a drier island, mainly Muslim and much quieter. See photograph 10. Many of the roads are reasonably good by Indonesian standards and riding is quite enjoyable. There are a lot of cattle though loose on the road. Care is needed when passing animals as their behavior is unpredictable.
In this land of many contrasts I sometimes filled up at one of the new, smart Pertamina stations, where the staff have red uniforms. See photograph 12. Petrol and diesel prices at these Government stations are the same throughout Indonesia at 4,500 Rupiah a liter.
Often fuel is sold by the side of the road in bottles at a small premium of around 500 to 1500 Rupiah per liter. This is sometimes more convenient and is a vital service in locations remote from the state run facilities.
I stopped in Sumbawa Besar to use the ATM facilities there. The ATM system is still being developed and many areas do not have even a bank nearby. Planning the money needed and accessing it when required takes a bit of thought.
There are a number of warongs or cheap restaurants. Generally the food is delicious and prepared from fresh ingredients. The fish is especially good in these island areas.
The end of the second day saw me in Empang, half way along the island of Sumbawa. This is 332km riding from Denpasar + the two ferry crossings. En route I had been asking about where to stay; as hotels can be few and far between. I stayed in a pleasant but basic chalet style room at the Hotel Bala Kemar. See photograph 9. For my evening meal I walked in to town and ate at a roadside stall. I decided to buy a new battery for the Tiger. The local Honda shop, run by Geoffrey and Lucy, were most helpful. They even sent out for beers and ice for me, which I paid for and drank at the counter of the shop whilst the battery was fitted and minor adjustments - such as chain tensioning and lubrication made. The locals, mainly Muslim, were quite surprised as not many white faces are seen in these areas. Everyone was very friendly though.
Setting off early next morning and fully loaded I became really deflated when I had a sudden rear wheel puncture only a few hundred meters from the Hotel.
As luck would have it I was by a roadside stall where punctures can normally be fixed. However on removing the inner tube it was clear that it could not be repaired as it had failed at the stem connexion to the valve. At this early hour it was not possible to easily source the correct size tube. However an inner tube suitable for the smaller section front tire was available. We fitted this small tube into the rear tire and I rode on steadily.
At lunchtime I arrived in Dompu and went to the Honda shop, where I purchased the correct size tube for the rear tire and had it fitted. If any country is geared up for easily keeping bikes on the road; it is Indonesia.
I arrived in Sape in the evening and found a losmen at the port town, on the East end of the island and point of embarkation for Flores – and Komodo. This really was basic and there were rats scurrying around the corridor and entering holes in the wooden walls. The pitter patter of tiny feet kept one alert at nite! The hotel staff laughed it off saying what in English translates as, "they-the rats- are not naughty" whatever that may mean. I thought that the cost of 100,000 Rupiah a nite excessive. A morning drink and snack was not even included.
Not that I had much time to sleep because I needed to reach Komodo. I asked around and I managed to negotiate a boat hire to take me to the island of Komodo. This cost me 1.8 million rupiah. This was quite expensive, but I was told that the boat could take 12 passengers. That would have been a squeeze and half that number would be more appropriate. There were no other visitors around to share with.
The contact called for me at 03.00 local time.
In darkness my contact led me through the dark alleys to the port area. We boarded a long wooden craft and waited for the Captain and his mate. I contemplated the Southern nite skies, with its many stars, as a balmy breeze blew and the boat gently bobbed around in the water. The old diesel engine rumbled noisily into life and disturbed the nite calm. In total darkness we slipped out of the harbor, past the ferry due to leave for Flores at 08.00 later that day.
We had taken some rations, dry biscuits and drinks. Coffee was prepared on a small stove in the rear of the boat. Condensed milk was added – a welcome energy boost at this early hour.
We chugged on for seven hours, across open seas with heavy swells and past many small uninhabited islands. See photograph 2. My main concern was breaking down or capsizing [there were no lifejackets or other emergency aids]. Periodically the mate would disappear below the floor boards into the bowels of the boat, where, with bilge water sloshing round his feet and in incredibly noisy, dark conditions he would tinker with the engine to keep it going. At the same time one of the others would operate a pump to clear some of the bilge water leaking in thru' the hull.
As I watched a beautiful sunrise around 06:20 local time, [GMT + 8 hours], in the East across the South seas I realized I was living one of my dreams. See photograph 1.
Arrival in Komodo can only be described as spectacular. There are not many trees higher up on the slopes and it is quite different from what I have seen elsewhere in Indonesia. The actual local cost of entry to the Park is only 20,000 Rupiah. However a tourism fee of 15 US dollars is charged to foreigners, to aid the conservation effort. See www.gokomodo.org . Some may find this discrimination unfair. The reality is, though, that this fee is well beyond the means of the vast majority of Indonesians. Those lucky enough to be in work may typically receive only around 1 to 2 million rupiah a month. Looking at the wider picture it is probably only fair that those in a position to pay the fee are asked for it. We all live on one planet and we all have to take responsibility for its protection.
A guide from this World Heritage site took me on a personal tour around one of the walking paths. The first sight of one of these magnificent dragons really excited me. I went to within about 6 meters of it. See photograph 4.
After the trek we had a delicious meal of fish, rice and vegetables-washed down by Bintang beer laced with ice.
I had planned to take a little rest on the idyllic tropical sand beach and a dip in the crystal clear blue waters. However the guide advised that this was not a good idea in case the dragons came too close.
It is possible, with pre planning, for a selected few to stay overnite on Komodo - in one of the 5 basic rooms for visitors on the island. The Government wishes to restrict visitors to this World Heritage site, to protect the fragile environment.
I had to leave the island to return to Sumbawa. At 15:00 I boarded the boat, with its waiting crew, at the wooden jetty. See photograph 3.
On the long trip home I was again able to relive one of my fantasies of sailing Westwards into the setting sun. See photograph 5. Around 17.55, almost twelve hours after sunrise, a giant orange ball quickly disappears below the distant horizon not far South of the Equator.
As we chugged in the darkness back into Sape I took a call on my handphone from my Wife. We approached land around 22:00 and came within range of the communications masts which have sprung up recently on all the islands. It remains to me quite remarkable that modern technology enables one to keep in touch, even when one's exact locus is not known by the other party.
I salute the Captain for his navigation skills, missing reefs, other boats and finding land in what to me seemed like total darkness on the high seas.
14 hours in a small boat in tropical conditions is quite grueling. I was glad, after a most memorable day, to make landfall. I took my contact for a meal at a warong, which was still open at this late hour, in the port.
I then returned to the losmen for several hours partial sleep, conscious all the time of the nearby rats and hoping one did not choose to run across my, mostly uncovered, body - in the sweaty conditions of the nite.
I arose early in the morning, before sunrise. I was hungry, but curious to see the port – assorted vehicles arriving for the journey via ferry to Flores. I was astonished to see two bikes with European plates there. One was a KTM with GB plate and the other an Africa Twin – Dutch registered. See photograph 6. Wearing my WAM T shirt, see photograph 7, I was soon talking to the 2 riders –who left Europe 10 months ago bound for Australia. The web site www.ktmdunk.co.uk is well worth visiting –describing their adventures. They bought tickets for the ferry to Flores due to leave at 08:00. They invited me to join them on their trip to Flores – a place I long to see. I was really tempted to accept. However I had to visit my in laws on another island in Indonesia & time did not permit this trip. As they headed East on the ferry to Flores, see photograph 8, I headed West back to Bali – 3 days ride away. See photograph 11. Still I'm sure that one day I will reach Flores-maybe even some of the islands further East too.
On June 8 2010 I arrived in Sengiggi on the West side of Lombok. I thought that I would treat myself to a nite in a tourist hotel, the Bintang Senggigi, in this beach location. I was amazed at the lack of visitors, though. Possibly because it is not until July/August that visitor numbers from Europe grow, but also because of the banking crisis in the West. This crisis does not seem so manifest in the Asian banking system though.
I wished to eat fish so I went to a beach restaurant, next door to my hotel, called the Warung Menega. Here I had the most magnificent feast - as the sun went down over the holy mountain of Gunung Agung in Bali. It cost 155,000 Rupiah, with beers. Few were there and I felt sorry for the traders who have come to rely so much – too much – on the tourist.
The next day I returned to Bali and rested a little before flying on to Palu in Sulawesi on Sunday June 13 2010 via Makassar. Total flight time just over 2 hours on Lion Air. The return ticket cost was 2,390,000 Rupiah booked thru' BSA, [nothing to do with the motorcycle Manufacturer!], Tour & Ticketing in Denpasar.
I borrowed my Brother in Law's Yamaha Jupiter 110cc step thru' for the 2 day, 360km, trip back to the village of Ensa. See photograph 13. Whilst not the ideal bike for this out of town trip it is actually amazing what progress you can, in real world conditions, make on such a machine. It is lite and can be serviced anywhere. The European body build suffers some back discomfort due to the continual pounding from the poor road conditions. However Asians have a cure for this and massage is popular and available and expertly done to soothe tired bones and muscles.
On arrival in Ensa I was invited to a celebration of thanksgiving for the rice harvest at a nearby Family house. In the evening we ate the most wonderful rice, vegetables and pork, in this Christian village.
Electricity in the village is intermittent and on several hours a day only. It was off when I arrived. We made use of torches, candles etc. A generator was available at the celebration for power. [Why are there no wind up wireless sets or torches or solar power packs????].
Riding in mountainous Central Sulawesi one sees many accidents due to the extremely difficult driving conditions and generally poor condition of the vehicles. See photograph 14.
Whilst in towns the number of traffic laws and rules seems to increase year by year, in the villages it is a different story.
In towns bikes now have to have their headlites on, even in the daytime, for example. Safety helmets have to meet higher standards. SNI stands for the Indonesian National Standard. Two rear view mirrors are required.
In the villages most do not use safety helmets and enforcement of the rules is virtually nonexistent. Children as young as 11 will use step thru's, often carrying younger siblings. Often one sees several children on a motorcycle in the local version of the school run.
One may have thought that bicycles would be common too, especially for children. This is not the case & virtually everyone will use a small motorcycle – even for very short trips, of the order of several hundred meters.
The second day of my ride back to Palu from Ensa was quite challenging. I took the mountainous route via Napu District. The winding road climbed thru' primary jungle. There were many landslips and areas where the road had been washed away. Nearing sunset close to Palu I encountered the full force of a tropical rain storm. The sheer volume & intensity of rainfall needs to be seen to be believed.
So this is Indonesia – a complex, vast, diverse Country of many different cultures. It continues to confuse, frustrate and yet stimulate me all at the same time.
I have strong roots here and I keep returning. Maybe some of you reading this will have the opportunity one day to see things for yourself here.
One thing is for certain: Indonesia is much more than what you may read about in the tourist brochures for Bali.
Cheers,
Happy and safe riding. Tim Dishman, WAM Bali & Sulawesi Chapter
Pegending - Bali. Tuesday, June 22nd 2010

back to top

Map showing the location of Komodo Island [pulau P], in the Selat Sapi between Sumbawa and Flores.

Photograph 1. June 6th 2010. Sunrise over Pulau Komodo

Photograph 2. June 6th 2010. Captain and mate on the boat trip from Sumbawa to Komodo

Photograph 3. June 6th 2010. The hired boat moored at the jetty on Komodo.

Photograph 4. June 6th 2010. Guide by a large Komodo dragon.

Photograph 5. June 6th 2010. Tim sailing into the sunset over the South Seas.

Photograph 6. June 7th 2010. Two bikers at Sape in Sumbawa travelling from Europe to Australia. See ktmdunk.co.uk

Photograph 7. June 7th 2010. Tim with overland bikers, Duncan [l] & Roel [center], in Sape-Sumbawa. Note the WAM T shirt!

Photograph 8. June 7th 2010. Ferry boat moored at Sape in Sumbawa – soon to leave for Labuan Bajo in Flores.

Photograph 9. June 8th 2010_Tim's chalet at the Hotel Bala Kemar in Empang-Sumbawa.

Photograph 10. June 8th 2010. Road sign at Poto Tano – a port at the West end of Sumbawa.

Photograph 11. June 8th 2010. Tim at Poto Tano – about to board the ferry for Kayangan, Labuhan Lombok.

Photograph 12. June 8th 2010. Pertamina Girl topping up the Tiger in Sumbawa.

Photograph 13. June 17th 2010. Tim with his Father in Law in Ensa, Central Sulawesi. Equipment – Yamaha Jupiter 110cc step thru' motorcycle.

Photograph 14. June 17th 2010. An accident on the road between Taripa and Tentena in Central Sulawesi. Truck rolled down embankment.

back to top